So if you’re lucky enough to be able to snag a replacement Nintendo cabinet from Arcade shop, you’ll realize that there’s a cut out in the bottom back, for a power supply. Since my project was not a restoration, but a new game, I wanted to fill this hole with a switch, a power intake fuse, and the line cord yet have it recessed. Below are the efforts of this task.
There’s no way of printing this without supports.
| Power Cable | 6ft 16 Gauge 3 Prong Heavy Duty Replacement Power Supply Cord Cable | Shop for this item | |
| Cord Grip | Compact Plastic Submersible Cord Grips | Shop for this item | |
| Toggle Switch | GB Electrical Toggle Switch, GSW-121, SPST, ON-OFF, 20 A/125V AC, Spade Terminal | Shop for this item |
| Printer Brand: | Flashforge | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Printer: | Dreamer Dual Extruder | Shop for this item | |
| Nozzle Used: | Micro Swiss .4mm Nozzle MK10 All Metal Hotend Upgrade Kit | Shop for this item | |
| Rafts? | No | ||
| Supports? | Required | ||
| Infill | 35% | ||
| Shown Printed in Filament Color | Solutech Real Black 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM PLA175RBLK | Shop for this item |
Remove supports and if shrinkage of your chosen plastic media makes any hole too tight, use this debuting tool on the hole to get it back to size
This design, as well as previous designs, was done in Autodesk’s free 123D design. This is now an abandoned piece of software, that I am still very proficient in. You can download its last revision for Windows (2.2.14) here, but understand that the online cloud storage option no longer works.
The .123dx file may contain sketches, solids, or both needed to render the final STL. and is included to ease part modification for your purpose.
